Performance fabric research with suzanne oude hengel

This ongoing research and development into knit sneaker concept design with Suzanne Oude Hengel (@suzanne.oudehengel) has been an incredible experience and learning opportunity. As my introduction into sneaker knits, this internship / collaboration has focused on discovering what is possible with performance knitwear. Research has been driven by problem solving (questions about lacing systems, shaping uppers, providing support etc.). As opposed to planning everything in advance or being driven by a single aesthetic vision, this allows ideas to form freely and co-mingle with each other. Documented here are highlights from this research.

Material Development

These samples explore both materials and knit structure with a view to influencing both shape and performance. The drive has been to integrate support, shaping, etc. into the fabric itself. Highlights include using ‘ripples’ (or ottoman) to create shape and stability, using pleats as gussets, and combining different yarns with textural knit structures to create dimension. I am particularly interested in using knit structure in combination with key materials to explore new ways of shaping uppers without fashioning.

ripple upper

This was my first attempt at creating a knit upper. I used ‘ripples’ as a way of providing support in key areas of the shoe as well as for design.

sideways lacing system

In an effort to move away from purely symmetrical design, ‘ripples’ are both a way of providing stability as well as an integrated lacing system..

ripple inlay toe

Building on the possibilities of using ‘ripples’ as a way of creating dimension, this concept combines them with inlay to provide more support on the toe.

Pleated gusset

A pleated gusset provides the majority of shaping for the upper (using minimal fashioning). In addition, the process of knitting the pleat creates eyelets which can then be reinforced with grommets.

INLAY HIGH TOP

This concept combines several structures from early exploration. The pleated gusset is used to provide shaping for much of the upper, while the ‘ripples’ are able to both provide support and allow for an integrated inlay lacing system.